Thursday, 26 March 2009

Jodpur to Hyderabad

It feels like so much has happened since my last update! My memory is already fading, which is a really bad sign.

The night train to Jaisalmer was fine. Very comfortable. I think this was my first over night train. I chose to go 3rd class with air con. The carriage was mixed with foreign tourists and army men. I did not know that Jaisalmer is one of the Indian Air force bases. The guys were nice and friendly.

I slept surprisingly well, and was pleased that Jaisalmer was the last stop otherwise who knows where I would have ended up. I met my hotel owner at the train station and had to give my apologies ad the train was two hours late getting in. It was beautiful to see the sun rising, the colours of the sky changing, and seeing people walking around with blankets wrapped around themselves. It was 5.30am and pretty chilly.

I checked in to my hotel and slept for a while. Pleased that I had two thick blankets to snuggle in to. Once I got myself together booked myself on to a camel safari.

Camel safari was great fun. There was me, a French couple and four English girls. Everyone found it very painful on their thighs. Each time we got off the camel we had to kinda dance around to shake out the pain. The trek was great. We would walk for a few hours then rest under the shadow of the trees and shrubs. The food cooked was amazing despite everything being so basic.

Once we arrived at the sand dunes the sun was quite low and the dunes looked golden like butter. The ripples in the sand were getting bigger and bigger as the sun sunk lower and lower. We all finished playing around on the sand once there was no more light and dinner was ready. A man wanted to sell us some beers but none of us wanted any. We were all so tired and wanted to sleep. The beer seller was not too happy with us. I think he thought we are a sure thing.

We all enjoyed looking up at the stars and trying to work out star constellations, shooting stars, planets and of course satalights. The sky was so bright and beautiful. Gradually we all fell a sleep and were all surprisingly warm under our blankets.

We were all awake early, well with the sunrise, and after breakfast were ready to get back on the camels. I think camels are one of the smelliest animals. They fart and poo so much.

Once the trek was over I was walking a little bit funny and the locals made fun of me. The following few days I explored the fort and surrounding areas with some people from the hotel. The fort might be the prettiest I have seen so far. Every where there are intricate carvings in the sand stone. Everything of such fine detail. I am so impressed that it is still standing as sandstone is so soft, but Jaisalmer rarely sees the rain.

My time in Jaiselmar came to an end and it was time to move on. I had to take two over night trains to get to Udaipur. The first one, I thought I had booked myself on to a women's only carriage, but I was the only woman on the carriage. Everyone else were army men. No one spoke to me, except to ask where I was getting off. Once a few women and families got on I felt more comfortable. The guys did not speak to me again except to wake me up 10 minutes before the train pulled in to Jaipur- where I was changing trains. They woke up the entire carriage like it was a military exercise. I was grateful and a bit shocked at the same time.

I spent the day in Jaipur. Decided to do the city tour, which I never did before and had plenty of time before my next train. I had a lot of fun. I did not go in to all the attractions, as some of them I had seen, so I hung out with the driver, whilst everyone else was inside the palaces and forts. He was very interesting and brought me lots of chai. We went to the local markets and chatted with everyone.

Once the tour was over I had a bit of time spare before my train. I met an English and a Canadian girl in the waiting room. We all had a great chat and exchanged our stories of India so far. We were all going in different directions, though our trains all left about the same time.

Train to Udaipur was okay. Waking up to the sunrise and the mist and the hills were a delight. I had spent the best part of two weeks in barren land, and mostly flat that it was a real pleasure to see water and hills and greenery.

Udaipur is a medium sized town. There is a modern part and the older part. The temples and the palaces were again so beautiful. The art work is of such fine craftsmanship. No patterns are repeated. Everything is perfect.

I spend my first week here volunteering for an animal hospital. I cycled there and the locals found this quite funny. The setting of the hospital was in the middle of rural farm land. All the animals had problems. Most had mange, some had broken limbs and others paralysed. The dogs and cat were so loving. I would do basic chores of walking them, brushing them and just giving them lots of attention. I really enjoyed it. There were lots of tiny cute puppies and the most beautiful cat I have ever seen.

All the staff and volunteers were great too. Got on with everyone so well. They were patient with me as I was scared of some of the dogs as they liked to bark a lot, though managed to over come this fear after a while.

I had the intention of volunteering for two weeks, but I was finally struck down with Delhi Belly. I had not been this ill since I was a child. I think it was a combination of working out in the heat all day and I do not want to think what else. I felt so bad for the people in my dorm room. I am sure I kept everyone up all night. I asked to see a doctor and was getting better quickly with the anti biotics he gave me. Once I was over the worst of it I manage to get out and about again. People in the dorm were so kind and friendly. We all started to go to yoga together and explore further sights in Udaipur.

It was time to get on the road again, well train. I took the sleeper train to Delhi. Normally I prefer the sleeper train, more air and more comfortable than 3rd class air con. I had forgotten how much cooler Delhi was and froze all through the night. I met up with some friends that I had first met in Delhi for the morning and afternoon, then in the afternoon met up with some friends from home.

We all celebrated Holi together, which was throwing colours at each other and looking ridiculous, but it was all great fun. Next day we took a flight to Goa.

Getting of the plane at Goa was great. Back in the hot humid tropical weather. The guys found the heat a little bit difficult to deal with then me, having come fresh from the UK. We checked in to nice beach side apartment. It was wonderful to be out of the tourist scene for a little while.

Goa is a total contrast from Rajasthan. It was the first time in months I had seen bars and bottle shops. There are great big, beautiful churches here. There are a mix of men and women working. The beaches were beautiful. Soft sand. Plenty of shelter. We were not able to walk on the sand in the middle of the day as it burnt our feet. The coast is full of palm trees. Goa is very relaxing.

We checked out a few of the bars. I had not really had much to drink since New Year's Eve so had to take it easy, and nor could I drink very much so boringly switched back to lime sodas. The bars were fun, but I could have been in Phuket, Byron Bay or Ibiza. It is a fun, party beach town. Sure there was more to explore than the beach, the bars and a few churches. It was nice to take a break from rushing around from place to place.

Time flew by in Goa. The guys were heading north and I wanted to make my way to Hampi. We all said our goodbyes and I went off on my first night bus in India. I feel that the guys miss out here as the bus was filled with half dressed Russian girls. The bus journey was fun. Chatted loads and exchanged stories as usual.

Arriving at Hampi was fine. Checking in to my hostel with someone from the bus, then we went out exploring the ruins of Hampi. There were so many. Not sure if they are all real, but the sculptures and scenery were amazing. There were boulders scattered everywhere. Huge rocks and a lovely river that ran through the village. Not sure where the water source started from. It felt like a desert here and I actually got sunburnt here.

The sculptors and stone carvings were of so many different things. Battles, gods, goddesses, and various erotic images. Every space that could be decorated was. I am sure back in the day there would have been precious stones and much more decoration.

It was clear that there was wealth from tourism here in Hampi, though people claimed to still be poor. I am not sure if this is still the case. People here were very relaxed too.

I am now in Hyderabad. It feels a bit like Kuala Lumpur . It is a modern city. The roads are full of traffic. There is a big Muslim presence here. Its also very well developed. It could be a city anywhere in the world. There are thriving businesses here.

I am off to see the local film studios tomorrow then in the evening will be off to Ellora to explore the caves in the surrounding areas.

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